Sushi In Montreal : Sapporo

Our feature on sushi in Montreal will cover sushi available in a variety of forms at a variety of places: dining in, sushi-to-go, prepackaged sushi available at stores near you. So stay tuned, stay hungry and keep your chopsticks ready.

Not only will I not eat anything that ever had a heartbeat, I’m allergic to seafood, so some might find it odd that I’ve become entirely addicted to sushi. Sushi aficionados might say that I am not getting the real thing but they are merely the Grinch trying to steal sushi. There are many creative vegetarian options out there and they are ever so tasty. I crave the stuff and have to have it. It’s healthy, delicious and thankfully its becoming more and more readily available. As a result I’ve sampled the wares of many a sushi hut in Montreal (sushi hut is a phrase I’ve coined myself at this very moment, and would like to take this time to ensure copyright on it). And for the first time in my life I can proudly state that I am no longer chopstick impaired.

this week: Sapporo

Sapporo
When it’s time for a treat, it’s time for Sapporo. I recently discovered the restaurant while my father and I were walking down Prince Arthur Street, not wanting Greek food. (To anyone unfamiliar with Prince Arthur, it’s a pedestrian-only cobblestone street that boasts the Caverne Grecque, La Maison Grecque, Casa Grecque, and the like.) Sapporo is situated above a Thai restaurant, with a window wall overlooking Prince Arthur, so you can enjoy the sounds of the street musicians without needing to endure the ogling passersby and necking couples. (Hey, I’m trying to eat over here!)

Now, my father repeatedly refers to himself as a ‘Sushi Maven’, so I can rightfully include some non-veg reviewing here. I’ll get right to the food. By far, Sapporo sushi is the best. The vegetarian roll has an incredible flavour and texture unlike anything I’ve eaten before, with carrot, Japanese vegetables and tender, lightly fried zucchini morsels. Y’know in commercials when an actor takes that mouthful of cereal, then rolls his eyes back so far they brink on falling out, then he shakes his head slowly from side to side, as though nothing else could ever taste so good? Wrong.

When the Maven and I returned a second time to Sapporo, I wanted to ensure I would get this zucchini-enhanced sushi, so I asked the waitress to ask the chef for it. When my sushi arrived, it was a few rolls short,but the waitress said she would return with my ’special order’. But what I’d wanted was already in front of me. After much worry that the chef was in the process of creating something I’d be allergic to, my dish was delivered to me. He had created a warm sushi dish, with a sweet potato center accompanied by tempura zucchini, and a thick hot teriaki-esque sauce for dipping. (Quote the Maven, “That’s some kinda sauce!”) This may be the best thing I’ve ever eaten in my life, I shit you not. Warm, crisp, spicy — an unbelievable flavour combination. My mouth waters at the memory and I know I’ll be back there soon.

The chef made this item particularly for me; it does not appear on the menu. He assured me he’d remember me the next time and whip it up again, so I pray this man remains amnesia-free. I assume anyone who goes in and orders the warm, sweet potato sushi will be treated with the same dish. What service. (More on that later.) My father is equally enamoured of Sapporo (though he repeatedly mentions a place on Bernard street I’ve yet to check out). He says the eel is magnificent, but to be honest, he adores it anywhere. I asked him what his favorite dish at Sapporo was and he responded, ‘The eel,’ as he always does.

He asked the waitress to suggest something to him that he would love, and she recommended their dragon roll. This is a lightly fried, warm sushi that arrives at the table looking like artwork, spiky and golden. It is served with that incredible aforementioned teriyaki sauce, and dad fell right in love with it. Knowing I’d be writing a review, he told me, again, ‘The sushi here is delicious, and I am a sushi maven.’ If you are a sushi skeptic or think nothing of what some stranger’s dad thinks, keep this in mind: my dad is pretty old school. That he ever tried sushi in the first place was a total surprise, and the fact that he now loves it speaks volumes for what you might think is simply a 90’s trend or flash in the pan (Note culinary vocab. Get it?) Sushi is here to stay. But I digress.

Two final words about Sapporo. It may not be sushi, but the tofu agedashi (lightly fried, major cubes of tofu in a light sauce) was de-groovy. Even my father, Mr. What-the-hell-is-tofu-Segal, sung its praises.

And back to the service. At our last visit the restaurant was quite busy, with only two chefs rolling the sushi (right there in front of you). We were hungry and eagerly awaiting our food. The chefs, noting our constant neck-craning to see if our food was up yet, had the waitress bring over two yummy salads for us, on the house (which, I might add, I mastered with chopsticks). We hadn’t caused a fuss, we hadn’t complained, we hadn’t asked. In fact, we understood why we were waiting and didn’t mind, but the chefs sent the salads over anyway. I love the extra mile. One can sit by the window at a table or, towards the back, in tatami booths. Very laid back, very friendly staff, amazing food.

Heaven.

$60.00 CDN (40.00 USD) for a meal for two, where we both ordered like sushi was going out of style, and each took a doggie bag home.

SAPPORO, 166 Prince Arthur East, Montreal, Quebec, H2X 1B7.